1 / 6Wat Umong, also known as Suan Phutthatham, is a forest temple at the foot of Doi Suthep, about 15 minutes west of the Old City and 20 minutes from Mae Hia. Founded in 1297 by King Mangrai, the founder of Chiang Mai, it is known for its brick tunnels lined with Buddha images. Under tall trees, with birdsong instead of traffic, it feels a long way from the city, which is exactly why people come.
Why go
Most of Chiang Mai's famous temples are in the Old City or on the mountain top, busy with visitors from early morning. Wat Umong is different. It is a working forest monastery, spread out over shady grounds, and the atmosphere is about stillness: monks sweeping leaves, people walking slowly between the trees, small signs with Buddhist sayings hung on the trunks.
The tunnels are the reason it is on most lists. Built of old brick and set into a low hill, they run in several passages with niches holding Buddha images. Walking through them, cool and dim even on a hot day, is the most memorable part of the visit. Above the tunnels stands a large chedi, reached by a path up the side of the hill.
What to see
- The tunnels: enter from the front of the hill and follow the passages. Some niches still hold old Buddha images; others are lit by candles left by visitors. Walk slowly and let your eyes adjust.
- The chedi above the tunnels: climb the path to the top of the hill to see the large chedi up close. It is quieter up here than at the tunnel entrance.
- The lake: a calm lake in the lower part of the grounds, shaded by trees. Sitting by the water for a few minutes is a good way to slow down.
- The talking trees: a grove where the trees carry small signs with short Buddhist sayings. They are simple, often witty, and worth reading as you walk.
- The meditation centre: the temple runs meditation teaching and retreats. If you are interested, ask at the office; even if you are not, respect the quiet areas set aside for practice.
How to get there
- From the Old City
- about 15 minutes by car or Grab, heading west past the university area towards the foot of Doi Suthep.
- From the airport or Mae Hia
- about 20 minutes from Mae Hia by car via the canal road along the foot of the mountain, which avoids most city traffic. Grab is easy to book in both directions.
- By songthaew or Grab
- red songthaews do not run a fixed route here, so charter one or use Grab. Ask the driver to drop you at the main temple entrance.
- By bicycle or scooter
- the roads near the temple are quiet and shaded, and parking is easy. Ride carefully on the canal road at rush hour.
Tips
- Dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees, and keep your voice down: this is a place of meditation.
- Bring mosquito repellent, especially after rain and in the late afternoon.
- Go early on a weekday for the quietest visit. Weekend afternoons bring more local families and students.
- Wear shoes that slip off easily; you will take them off at several buildings.
- Wat Umong pairs naturally with Doi Suthep on the same day, since both are on the western edge of the city. It also fits a Mae Hia day: Wat Phra That Doi Kham, the quieter hilltop temple, and the gardens of Royal Park Rajapruek are both a short drive away.
- If you want to stay close to the mountain and away from the Old City, Mae Hia is a quiet base about 20 minutes from Wat Umong.
FAQ
Is Wat Umong free?
Yes. Entry is free, and donations are welcome.
What are the opening hours of Wat Umong?
The grounds are open 06:00 to 18:00 every day.
How old is Wat Umong?
It was founded in 1297 by King Mangrai, the founder of Chiang Mai.
How do I get to Wat Umong from Mae Hia?
By car or Grab, about 20 minutes via the canal road along the foot of Doi Suthep.
Can I meditate at Wat Umong?
Yes. The temple has a meditation centre; ask at the office about teaching and retreats.
