1 / 4Khao kha moo is pork leg braised in soy sauce, star anise and cinnamon until it falls apart, sliced over rice and served with pickled mustard greens, a boiled egg and chilli vinegar. It is eaten all over Thailand, but Chiang Mai has one stall that everyone talks about: the khao kha moo at the Chang Phueak Gate night market, known to everyone as the cowboy-hat khao kha moo stall, on the north side of the Old City moat, open in the evenings only, with a queue most nights.
What it is
Khao kha moo came to Thailand with Chinese cooks, and it is a street-food classic in every Thai city. Whole pork legs, skin on, are simmered for hours in a dark, aromatic stock of soy sauce, sugar, star anise, cinnamon and other warm spices. The long braise turns the skin soft and sticky, the fat melting and the meat tender enough to pull apart with a spoon.
To serve, the cook lifts a leg from the pot, chops the meat, skin and fat into slices on a heavy board and lays them over steamed rice. A ladle of the braising liquid goes over the top. On the side come pickled mustard greens, sharp and sour to cut the richness, a braised or boiled egg, a few leaves of greens, sometimes a whole clove of raw garlic and a fresh chilli, and a small bowl of chilli vinegar to spoon over as you eat.
It is not a northern dish in origin, but the Chang Phueak Gate stall has made it part of Chiang Mai's food identity. Locals and visitors line up for it in the evenings, and it appears on almost every list of the city's must-eat plates.
How to order
At a busy stall you order quickly. Say khao kha moo and the size, and the cook does the rest:
- Regular plate: rice with a mix of meat, skin and fat. The standard order.
- Large plate (phiset): more meat.
- Extra egg: add a braised egg if it is not already included.
- Meat only: some people order a plate of pork leg to share without rice, alongside other dishes.
If you prefer lean meat, ask for less fat (mai ao man); if you love the skin, ask for more. Spoon the chilli vinegar over the meat a little at a time, and eat the pickled greens between bites. A plate costs 50 to 80 THB.
Where to eat it
The Chang Phueak Gate stall is the one to try, but khao kha moo is easy to find across the city.
- Chang Phueak Gate night market, Old City (north moat). The famous stall, easy to spot by its queue. Evenings only, roughly 17:00 to 23:00. The queue moves fast. Middle of the price band.
- Other stalls at the same night market. The area around Chang Phueak Gate fills with food stalls after dark, so you can add noodles, grilled meat or dessert while you wait. Low to middle of the band.
- Old City street food at night. Evening stalls around the moat and near Wat Chedi Luang sell khao kha moo alongside other rice dishes. Low to middle of the band.
- Rice shops across the city. Many shops serve khao kha moo at lunch as well as dinner. Low end of the band.
- Food courts in malls and markets. Clean, convenient and air-conditioned. Middle to top of the band.
The stall fits well into an evening in the Old City after the temples close. The 3-day itinerary includes evenings in the Old City, and if you spend an evening at the Night Safari near Mae Hia instead, the gate is about 25 minutes away for a late plate.
Other northern dishes to try
After khao kha moo, try the dishes Chiang Mai is known for:
- Khao soi: the city's curry noodle soup, best at lunch.
- Kaeng hang le: a different kind of slow-braised pork, northern and curried.
- Sai ua: grilled herb sausage, a good snack from the same night markets.
FAQ
What is khao kha moo?
Pork leg braised in soy sauce, star anise and cinnamon, served over rice with pickled mustard greens, egg and chilli vinegar.
Where is the famous khao kha moo in Chiang Mai?
At the Chang Phueak Gate night market on the north side of the Old City moat.
What time does the Chang Phueak Gate khao kha moo open?
In the evenings only, roughly 17:00 to 23:00. Hours can change, so go early.
How long is the queue?
It is common to wait, but the line moves quickly because the cook works fast.
How much does khao kha moo cost in Chiang Mai?
Usually 50 to 80 THB a plate, a little more for a large plate.
